Oakland East Bay California Real Estate Update
Saturday, May 26, 2007

AVAILABLE

6176 Ocean View Drive, Oakland, CA 94618 (Upper Rockridge)
$1,180,000.00


Stunning Upper Rockridge Mediterranean
Single Family Home
Beds: 3
Baths: 2.5
Sq. Ft.: 2198
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ID #40261838
Den/study room
Fireplace
Forced air heating
Gas heating
Hardwood flooring
Security system
Walk-in closet
2-car garage
Patio/deck
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Property Details:This sophisticated three-plus bedroom, two and one-half bath 1996 Mediterranean offers a rarely found mix of fabulous open space, cathedral ceilings and sense of loft living. Walls of glass allow a wealth of natural light which radiates though the common spaces of the home. The living room is on its own exclusive level with French doors to the back deck and offering an artisan crafted adobe fireplace to frame the room. A wonderful plus room (perfect as a forth bedroom or home office) is located at the top of the house turret. The North East exposure off the back of the house gives you a peak of Berkeley and provides wonderful mid-morning light.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 2:17 PM

COMING SOON!!

To Be Announced, El Cerrito, CA 94530 (El Cerrito)
$675,000.00


Beautifully Remodeled Showcase Home!
Single Family Home
Beds: 2
Baths: 1
Sq. Ft.: 1204
Lot Size: 4000 sq. ft.

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Eat-in kitchen
Fireplace
Forced air heating
Property Details:Coming Soon! This spectacular home has been gracefully remodeled to the finest standards. Smoothly rounded corners, coffered ceiling, arches, and custom built-ins. Unique river stone fireplace, huge and beautifully appointed eat-in kitchen, sunny enclosed rear yard with sprinkler system and attached garage. Move in condition and truly a must see home.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 2:13 PM

PENDING!!!

5946 Harbor View Avenue, San Pablo, CA (San Pablo)
$600,000.00
Pending


Panoramic Bay Views in the Hills
Single Family Home
Beds: 4
Baths: 2.5
Sq. Ft.: 2338
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Property Details:Immaculate custom cedar home with panoramic Views of the Bay, San Francisco, Golden Gate, Mt. Tam & more! New hardwood floors through the upper level, walls of glass & open kitchen with granite counter tops make this home ideal for entertaining. Over sized master bedroom suite with balcony, huge lower rumpus/family rooms, three additional bedrooms & a total of 2.5 baths are offered. Large two car garage with additional storage is located below & the home sits one block from the entrance to wonderful Alvarado Park!

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 2:12 PM

NEW LISTING

525 Mandana Boulevard, Oakland, CA 94610 (Grand-Lake)
$699,000.00


Roof Top Penthouse with Panoramic Views
Condo
Beds: 2
Baths: 2
Sq. Ft.: 1810
Lot Size: 0 sq. ft.
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Remodeled Kitchen

Glass Enclosed Dining Area

Rooftop Patio

Open Floor Plan

Remodeled Master Bath

Resurfaced Exterior
Property Details:This Stunning rooftop penthouse offers over 1800 square feet of living space and panoramic views of Lake Merritt! A chic new kitchen featuring stainless appliances and handsome granite counter tops is easy to fall in love with and leads you into a large living area with gas fireplace and balcony. The suite also features an additional lake view office, romantic glass enclosed dining room with city and lake views and a master bedroom suite with remodeled bathroom. A large rooftop patio is perfect for sipping morning coffee or enjoying fabulous evening sunsets at days end! The suite shares the roof with only one other penthouse and both have additional rooftop storage rooms and an exclusive common laundry! The property is just one block to both Grand & Lakeshore retail areas with fabulous shops, restaurants, theatres and fun!

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 2:11 PM

PENDING!!

300 Capricorn Avenue, Oakland, Oakland, CA 94611 (Montclair)
$700,000.00
Pending


Private Oasis in the Montclair Hills
Single Family Home
Beds: 3
Baths: 2.5
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Property Details:Lovely, Private Montclair Home w/extra lot included! Wonderful skylights and picture windows random pegged hdwd flrs and a cozy kitchen. Exposed beams, open floorplan, views of the Oaklnd Hills large deck and separate private patio. Detached office-cottage w/1/2 bath is a bonus!

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 2:10 PM

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Tips To Keep Your Home Safe

Important Tips To Keep Your Home Safe
It's much more than a physical structure. It's the place where memories are made, where dreams are shared, where lives are lived. And many of your home's contents--the video of your baby's first steps, grandmother's brooch or old family photos, for instance--simply cannot be replaced. That's why it makes good sense to do everything you can to protect your home from fire and theft.
Preventing Fires
Most fires are preventable. First, let's look at the top causes of home fires.
Cooking fires. Cooking fires pose a serious hazard. Always stay near the stove when cooking. Avoid wearing loose sleeves while cooking; they can be ignited by a burner or a grease splatter. You'll also want to keep curtains and other flammable materials well away from the range or oven. And never put water on a grease fire, which can cause the hot grease to splatter, burning you or spreading the fire. Instead, smother it with a lid or another pan, then turn off the burner. Leave the lid in place until it has cooled off completely.
Portable and space-heating equipment. Wood-burning, kerosene, propane and electric heaters can ignite draperies, clothing and other flammable items. Keep anything that can burn at least 3 feet away from all heating equipment. Shut off a heater before you leave the room or go to bed. When you purchase a heater, make sure it's been tested and approved by a reputable organization.
Careless smoking. Cigarettes are the leading cause of fire deaths. Never smoke in bed or in a place where you may fall asleep. Also, use deep ashtrays so a lit cigarette won't roll out and fall onto rugs or furniture. It's also a good idea to run water over an ashtray before emptying it into the trash. A smoldering cigarette butt could set the trash on fire.
Electrical wiring. You can't see wires hidden inside walls and ceilings, but there are some warning signs of electrical problems. If lights dim or flicker, fuses blow frequently or sparks shoot from receptacles when items are plugged in or unplugged, consult an electrician. Faulty electrical cords can also spark a fire or cause an electrical shock. Never run cords under rugs or heavy furniture. Pressure can crack insulation and break the wires. Don't overload outlets.
Children with matches. Children playing with matches or lighters are the leading cause of fire deaths for children 5 and under. Keep these items up high, preferably in a locked cabinet, out of the sight and reach of small children. Teach older ones how to handle matches responsibly.
Holiday hazards. Decorations and candles are a special concern during the holidays. If you buy a live Christmas tree, choose a fresh one and water it daily. With an artificial tree, make sure it's made of flame-retardant materials. Keep candles well away from anything that can burn and blow them out when you leave the room or go to bed. Fireworks also deserve special mention. They endanger life, limb and property. Avoid amateurs who set off fireworks. Instead, attend public displays conducted by trained pyrotechnicians. Even sparklers are hazardous; they burn at 1200 F.
There are some other simple, common sense precautions you can take to decrease your chances of a home fire:
Never store or use gasoline in the home. Gasoline is a motor fuel only. Keep small quantities in an approved container designed to store gasoline, and store outside, preferably in a locked, detached shed. Wipe up spills immediately and never refuel motors near heat sources, sparks or cigarettes.
Don't overload electrical receptacles.
Don't use light bulbs with greater wattages than a fixture can handle.
Don't let combustible materials such as newspapers and rags pile up in basements and garages.
Leave plenty of air space around appliances and television sets; they can overheat and catch fire.
Use outdoor gas and charcoal grills with caution. Keep them away from structures, particularly when in use. Never add materials to the fire.
Fireplace Safety
If your home has one or more fireplaces, special precautions can help to keep home fires burning safely:
Never burn charcoal or use a hibachi in your fireplace. Both produce deadly carbon monoxide.
Protect against sparks by enclosing a fireplace's opening with glass doors or a sturdy screen.
Never close the flue while a fire is still smoldering. Carbon monoxide could build up.
Never use gasoline, kerosene or lighter fluid to start a fire. Burn only dry, seasoned hardwood. For extra safety, light fires with long-stemmed matches.
Have your fireplace and chimney inspected annually. They should be properly vented and free of blockages. Have them cleaned as needed.
Protect the top of your chimney with a guard that keeps out birds and small animals and keeps in sparks that could ignite your roof.
Keep flammables such as newspapers, magazines, rugs and carpeting well away from the fireplace.
Remove holiday decorations from the fireplace and mantle before building a fire to avoid having the decorations ignite.
Teach children to stay back from the fireplace.
Never leave a fire unattended.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
If Fire Breaks Out
Smoke detectors greatly increase the likelihood you'll survive a fire. Place at least one on each floor of your home and outside each sleeping area. Install detectors inside bedrooms for added protection. Mount detectors on the ceiling, at least 4 inches away from the wall. Test detectors monthly and replace batteries once a year. To help you remember, plan to install new batteries on an annual event, such as the Fourth of July. Replace smoke detectors after 10 years.
If a fire does break out, take immediate action. Smoke and flames spread rapidly. Get out of the house right away, then call the fire department from a neighbor's house or a cellular phone. Fumes overcome most victims long before flames reach them. Use your safest exit. If you must escape through smoke, get down and crawl low under the smoke, keeping your head about 12-24 inches off the floor.
If you haven't gotten around to conducting a family fire drill, now's the time to do it. And visit your local hardware store or home center to invest in a few fire extinguishers. Extinguishers are classified according to the type of fire they will put out, and you'll find the classification displayed on an extinguisher. A Class ABC extinguisher is multi-purpose and works well against any small, self-contained fire. Keep one in the kitchen, extras in the basement or garage. Contact your fire department to ask about training. Don't attempt to fight a fire unless you know you have the right extinguisher to handle that type of fire, and be sure to keep your back to a safe exit.
Fire Safety Checklist
Take this quick quiz to help you assess your family's fire safety plan:
Do you follow the fire prevention practices outlined above? Pay special attention to safety tips on cooking, smoking, use of heating equipment, proper storage of flammables and precautions regarding children and matches.
Are your smoke detectors working? There should be at least one on every floor of your home. Test each detector monthly, and replace batteries annually.
Do you hold regular fire drills? Several times a year, have your family practice exiting your home safely and quickly in the event of an emergency. Designate a meeting place for all family members to gather once they are out of the house.
Have you taught your children to "stop, drop and roll"? In the event their clothing catches fire, kids (and adults) should stop, drop to the floor, cover their faces and roll over and over or back and forth to put out the fire. Keep rolling until the fire goes out.
Have you planned an alternate escape route? It's important to have at least two escape routes from each room in your home, often a door and a window. Practice using them now to be sure you could get out in an emergency.
Can you safely exit from the second floor? A chain ladder or other easily accessible ladder can help you escape from the upper stories of your home in the event of a fire.
Do you know how to use your fire extinguishers? Know where your fire extinguishers are kept, and read the instructions for use before you need them.
Do you know the phone number for your local fire department and the location of the nearest phone outside your house? In case of fire, always evacuate your home first, then call for help from a cellular or other nearby phone.
Preventing Theft
Every year, burglars hit more than five million households, stealing more than $4 billion worth of property. Determined thieves can break into just about any home, but you can take steps to make entry a lot more difficult for them.
Invest in a quality door. Door security begins not with a good lock but with the door itself and the frame it fits into. Weak door assemblies can be broken with a single kick, popped open with a jimmy bar or even pried out-frame and all-from the wall. Strong exterior doors have solid, not hollow, cores; doors that are sheathed in metal are even better.
Install deadbolts. Deadbolt locks provide the best protection for the least amount of money. Ordinary spring-operated locks can be defeated with a credit card. Intruders can't slip a deadbolt lock because it has a solid metal bar that fits into the door jamb. To be effective, a deadbolt lock should have at least a one-inch throw (meaning the metal bolt extends at least an inch past the edge of the door). Doors with glass panes present a special security problem because a thief can break the pane, reach inside and unlock the door. If local laws permit, the solution is a double-cylinder lock-one that must be opened with a key from inside as well as out. But don't defeat the purpose by getting into the habit of leaving the key in the lock on the inside. To exit quickly in case of a fire, keep the key near the door but in a spot that can't be reached from outside. You might want to hang it on a nail near the floor where you can find it easily if fire breaks out.
Don't forget windows. Windows and sliding glass doors also should be secured. Look for locks specifically made for different window styles at your local hardware store or home center. You also can secure a sliding glass door with a broomstick or piece of 1" x 2" lumber laid in the door track when the door is closed.
Light up. Outside flood lighting reduces your risk of burglary by highlighting the exterior of your home at night. You can choose from lights that remain on all night or motion-sensitive lights that come on only when someone approaches your home. Motion-sensitive lights save energy and could catch a would-be thief by surprise. Timers on inside as well as outside lights give the impression that someone is home, even if you're on vacation, out to dinner or visiting the neighbors.
Sounding an Alarm
For greater peace of mind, consider investing in a professionally installed alarm system. Alarm systems come in many shapes and sizes, at prices that range from a few hundred to several thousand dollars. Many installers also charge monthly monitoring fees, which should be taken into account when you shop for a system. A home alarm system includes some combination of the following components:
Perimeter sensors. These consist of photo cells or magnetic contacts on doors and windows that sound an alarm when an intruder tries to get inside. Perimeter sensors are mounted on two points, such as the door jamb and the door itself. Photo cell sensors are activated when something passes through a beam of light projected between the two points, while magnetic sensors are activated when contact is broken between the two magnetized points.
Heat and motion sensors. You can use heat and motion detectors to protect specific spaces in or outside your home-a bedroom hallway, for instance, or your backyard. Heat detectors respond to body temperatures. Motion sensors detect movement.
Glass break detectors. These devices recognize the sound of breaking glass. They activate the alarm when they sense breaking glass in a window or door.
Keypad. One or more keypads allow you to turn the system on and off.
Audible alarm. A piercing alarm alerts neighbors and the police. And it lets the burglar know he's been detected, meaning he'll probably leave your house in a hurry.
Keep in mind that false alarms can be a problem. In addition to annoying the neighbors and taking the police away from real emergencies, some communities now assess fines for excessive false alarms. The National Burglar & Fire Alarm Association reports that nearly 80 percent of false alarms are caused by user error. Steps to prevent false alarms include regular system maintenance and ensuring that whoever has a key to your house also knows the codes to activate and deactivate your system. Local police are a good source of information and recommendations regarding security systems. They work with the security services in your area and can tell you what types of break-ins are most common in your community.
After you've determined which alarm system is best for you, ask your insurance agent, family or friends for referrals. Get written quotes from at least three companies. Before you obtain an alarm system, investigate a security service's reputation and how long it has been in business. Also ask about warranties and what they cover.
Insuring Against Loss
Homeowners or renters insurance provides money to replace possessions after a fire or theft. Remember to keep a good inventory of your property, including serial numbers. A quick way to do this is with snapshots or a camcorder. Store your inventory in a safe-deposit box or other location outside your home, and update it every year.
While you're making an inventory of your valuables, consider engraving them with your name. This makes it easier to trace the goods back to you if they're stolen. Many local police departments will loan etching tools.
Most insurers recommend that you insure your property at replacement cost. This reimburses you for what it would cost to replace items today, instead of paying only for their current, depreciated value. You'll pay a little more in premiums for this extra peace of mind, so shop around for the best policy and the best price. Consider only reputable companies and agents. Get at least three quotes. Some companies provide lower rates if you have more than one type of coverage with them, such as auto and home. Review your insurance coverage annually.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 3:28 PM

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Planning to Sell in the Fall? What To Do Now?

What You Should Do Now If You Plan On Selling This Fall
Home sales during the fall are traditionally a bit slower than the frenzied spring and summer months. But fall can be a good time to sell because there are (usually) fewer houses on the market - meaning less competition - and buyers typically want to buy quickly before winter and the holidays set in.
If you plan on selling this fall, you'll want to do everything in your power to attract would-be homebuyers. One of the first things you should do is examine, and, if needed, repair any major structural systems. If you're unaware of any, you may want to hire a professional home inspector. Chances are a potential buyer will hire an inspector to examine the house, so you might as well save yourself any surprises down the road.
The American Society of Home Inspectors says a typical home inspection includes drainage conditions, exterior surfaces, decks, chimney, the roof, windows, doors, plumbing fixtures, furnace, air conditioner, insulation, ventilation, electrical, heating, and plumbing systems.
Once that's done, you should make sure you don't have any loose shingles. Repair and paint your gutters, if needed. Once the structural systems are repaired or given the thumbs-up, then you should turn to appearance.
And when it comes to looks, if you're selling in the fall, there are many things to consider, including:
Curb appeal. In other words, the way your house looks from the street - the roof's condition, how the paint is holding up, whether the windows are sparkling, the lawn is mowed, the landscape is attractive and not buried beneath a peppering of fall leaves, and the driveway and walkways are free from toys and clutter.
Entering the house. Your front door should be in good condition. Usually when the real estate professional is busy retrieving the key from the lock box, the potential buyers are standing by with nothing else to look at but the front door. Does it need painting or staining? Also, new hardware will make it stand out, and why not adorn it with a seasonal fall wreath?
Once inside your house, the two things that immediately turn off prospective buyers are dingy walls and dirty, ill-colored, outdated, or shabby carpet. Sometimes it's hard to be objective about the condition of your own house because you see it every day, so ask a friend, neighbor, or your real estate agent to give it a look and give you their honest opinion. Fresh paint can do wonders. Keep the colors neutral. And while you can offer buyers a carpet allowance to compensate for bad carpet, replacing it before selling really boosts that first impression and makes the house more appealing and worth more in the buyer's mind.
Clear the clutter. If you have too much furniture, put some of it in storage. Fewer pieces of furniture will make the room seem larger and more open. Also, clear counters in the kitchen and bathrooms. Make sure closets are clean. Pack up some of your clothes now. Fewer hanging clothes in the closet will make the closet appear bigger.
Talk to the professionals. Now's also a good time to interview real estate professionals. Ask about their experience, find out how well they know the area you're eyeing, and talk to references. Once you have someone lined up you can follow his or her additional recommendations and begin the final phases of preparation before your house goes on the market.
Finally, you should be mindful of setting a competitive price. Your REALTOR® will begin by conducting a competitive market analysis of your house and give you an estimate of the fair market value of your home, which is a range that will fluctuate depending on the housing market in your area and how much similar homes in your neighborhood are selling for.
Don't insist on setting the price too high, especially if you're on a timeline. A house priced appropriately will be taken more seriously and will ultimately sell more quickly than one that's overpriced. Written by Michele Dawson

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 8:33 AM

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Removing Stains From Hardwood Floors

Remove Stains from Your Hardwood FloorTired of looking down at your hardwood floor and seeing stains that have been left behind by some accident? Removing stains from your hardwood floor is probably not as difficult as you first may think, but the process will require time. The results and saved money are worth the effort. The following seven steps will guide you through this process.
STEP 1Sand the stain away. You will want to use a vibrating-type sander, such as a palm sander. DO NOT use a belt sander. Their power will ruin your floor before you realize it. Begin with medium (100-grit) sandpaper, and end with fine (150-grit) sandpaper to smooth.
STEP 2After the stain is sanded away, vacuum the dust and wipe the area with a dampened cloth. If you’re using an oil-based satin, dampen the cloth with mineral spirits. If you’re using a latex stain, dampen the cloth with water.
STEP 3Now, find a stain that matches the rest of the floor. To do this, choose two or three cans of stain that appear to be close to your floor color and start mixing them to try and find the right color. Make sure you document the amount of stain you added to each mix for future reference. Do not mix oil-based stains with latex stains.
STEP 4Test the different mixes on a piece of sanded, unstained wood that matches the wood of your floor. While the stain is still wet, check to see if you found a match. The wet stain will allow you to see what the stain will look like when it has been coated with polyurethane.
STEP 5If the color does not match, try mixing in a lighter or darker stain.
STEP 6When you find the right color, stain the floor.
STEP 7After the stain is dry, polyurethane the floor according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

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# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 2:07 PM

It Can Be Easy Being Green

What was that song that Kermit the Frog Used to Sing?? "It Isn't Easy Being Green"? Ok, So we may be dating ourselves.... But It can be easy being GREEN... Enviromentally speaking anyway...
This Thursday at Crocker Highlands Elementary come hear a talk on becoming Green....
The PTA now has a Green committee which is looking at ways to make our school more environmentally friendly. To that end, on Thursday, May 17 from 7-8:30 p.m., there will be a Parent Education Night on Global Warming at the school. Bruce Riordan will speak on this topic, having been trained by Al Gore’s Climate Project group, which is based on his work in the Academy-award winning movie, “An Inconvenient Truth.”
This presentation on global warming will focus specifically on Bay Area impacts and solutions, including:
A condensed version of Al Gore's global warming slideshow
Slides on Bay Area climate impacts (sea level rise, heat waves, Sierra snowpack, etc.)
Facilitated discussion on Bay Area solutions for individuals, neighborhoods, schools and businesses, featuring the Low-Carbon Diet: A 30 Day Program to Lose 5000 Pounds.

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# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 9:42 AM

Monday, May 14, 2007

STOP WASTE IN ALAMEDA COUNTY

www.STOPWASTE.ORG


In the Spotlight
East Bay Sustainable Business Summit: May 31, 2007
30 April 2007

The East Bay Business Times will be staging The East Bay Sustainable Business Summit on Thursday, May 31, 5:30-8 p.m. at the Pleasanton Hilton, 7050 Johnson Road. Featured will be food, drink and networking, followed by an interactive panel discussion with audience participation from start to finish. StopWaste is a sponsor of this event, which will include a discussion led by a powerhouse panel of executives and sustainable business experts who have proven that green isn't just the color of a healthy environment, it's the color of money.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 7:11 PM

Friday, May 11, 2007

March 2007 Market Data for California

March 2007 Regional Sales and Price Activity*Regional and Condo Sales Data Not Seasonally Adjusted

Median Price
Percent Change in Price from Prior Month
Percent Change in Price from Prior Year
Percent Change in Sales from Prior Month
Percent Change in Sales from Prior Year

Mar-07
Feb-07
Mar-06
Feb-07
Mar-06
Statewide





Calif. (sf)
$580,090
3.9%
3.2%
-8.1%
-20.8%
Calif. (condo)
$435,770
1.8%
1.2%
36.8%
-13.5%
C.A.R. Region





Central Valley
$331,450
-2.9%
-5.6%
27.9%
-32.3%
High Desert
$320,830
0.3%
-1.8%
11.6%
-45.4%
Los Angeles
$571,110
-3.8%
2.6%
55.2%
-4.6%
Monterey Region
$729,840
3.6%
2.7%
16.3%
-25.0%
Monterey County
$669,000
1.8%
-2.3%
18.8%
-35.2%
Santa Cruz County
$751,000
4.3%
1.5%
13.8%
-9.8%
Northern California
$391,460
-1.5%
-9.9%
14.4%
-13.4%
Northern Wine Country
$601,560
1.9%
-3.5%
35.9%
-18.8%
Orange County
$706,650
2.0%
-1.5%
33.4%
-14.9%
Palm Sprgs/Lwr Desert
$389,760
0.5%
-0.3%
37.2%
-29.8%
Riverside/S. Bernardino
$394,370
-3.7%
-1.7%
40.9%
-47.6%
Sacramento
$363,000
-3.0%
-3.5%
30.0%
-26.4%
San Diego
$605,950
2.1%
-0.2%
35.4%
-19.7%
San Francisco Bay
$785,380
5.5%
5.6%
37.9%
-16.7%
San Luis Obispo
$550,400
-5.2%
-6.1%
63.2%
5.5%
Santa Barbara County
$867,650
9.4%
14.2%
44.3%
-9.8%
S. Barbara So. Coast
$1,200,000
20.0%
0.8%
38.6%
3.2%
No. S. Barbara County
$407,140
-5.8%
-11.8%
53.3%
-23.3%
Santa Clara
$830,000
5.1%
9.2%
34.6%
-21.7%
Ventura
$672,550
-1.2%

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 8:11 PM

Looking for a Great Insurance Agent??

When we find and excellent vendor (Great rates and customer service) we always want to pass their name around
Are You Looking for a Good Insurance Agent or Even Just interested in Shopping Rates??

We Have found a great agent who we work with and who has helped many of our friends and clients with everything from Auto Insurance to Health and Life Insurance. His name is Jordan Shin and he can be reached at 510-783-0373, Farmer's Insurance.
Give him a call and say that Dave and Carla suggested you call him.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 10:01 AM

Wednesday, May 09, 2007

Writing Offers in a Buyer's Market

Top 10 Tips to Writing Purchase Offers in a Buyer's Market
Here is a great article on writing offers in a buyer's market.
From Elizabeth Weintraub,Your Guide to Home Buying / Selling.FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now!
Simply put, buyers' markets exist when there are a lot of homes on the market and very few buyers. If inventory--the number of homes on the market in your neighborhood--has been rising, it's likely that the days on market have been increasing. Couple that with declining sales figures over previous months, and home buyers are in an enviable position to negotiate. Here is how you can write a buyer's offer to your advantage.
1) Request E-Mail Listings & Updates
Almost 80% of home buyers today start a home search online. However, many buyers are unaware that the data they are viewing could be dated. Many Web sites reboot every 24 hours. On other sites, agents sometimes leave expired and sold listings as active, hoping for ad calls. To avoid wasting your time, ask your agent to register your e-mail address so you can receive daily MLS changes of reduced prices and new listings. This is one way to gain access to the same data agents receive.
2) Tour Price Reductions
If you're like most buyers, you will want to offer less than asking price. It's just human nature. But if you plan to low-ball, you'll probably be unsuccessful at getting that type of offer accepted if the home was just listed. Instead, tour homes that have had recent price reductions or have been on the market for at least 30 days or more. These sellers are more likely to be receptive to a low-ball offer.
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3) Obtain Comparable Sales
When you find a home you want to buy, ask your real estate agent to print out a list of similar homes in the same neighborhood over the last six months sorted by:
Active Listings
Pending Sales
Sold The list should contain the following specifics:
Property Address
Age
Square Footage
Lot size
Bedrooms & Baths
Sales PriceCompare this data with online home value sites such as Zillow and RealEstateABC, and you'll see first-hand why the data your agent gives you will be more accurate.
4) Request Contingencies
In a buyers' market, you're in control. Write your offer contingent upon the property appraising at the agreed upon sales price and on obtaining your loan. Check with your lawyer to find out if you can ask for a loan contingency that will protect you all the way to closing. Ask for a reasonable period to conduct inspections and to approve title, geological and pest reports. Ordinarily, during contingency periods, buyers can back out without risking a good faith deposit.
5) Ask for an Allowance or Credit
If you find the perfect home but you don't like the color or condition of the carpet, for example, ask the seller to give you a carpeting allowance in your offer. Check with your lender before you write the offer to find out how to word a credit clause that is acceptable to the lender. You can ask for more than it will cost to repair or replace an item to cover your "hassle" factor. Many lenders let borrowers receive up to 6% of the sales price as a cash credit against closing costs.
6) Reduce Your Closing Costs
Depending on your local area, there may be fees associated with closing that are customarily paid by the buyer such as title insurance, property taxes, recording fees or escrow. In a buyers' market, you can ask the seller to pay those closing costs. Typically, those costs can add up to one or two percent of the sales price and are often paid out-of-pocket by buyers. Ask your agent if these fees are negotiable. Then ask the seller to pay them.
7) Renegotiate After Home Inspections
All buyers should obtain a home inspection. Most contracts give buyers the right to cancel a contract if the home inspection reveals repairs or defects that are unacceptable to a buyer. However, if the repairs are minor, you might want to renegotiate the sales price or ask for a credit against your closing costs. Caution: don't ask for a price reduction if the repairs were evident when you first saw the home or the seller might not be willing to negotiate with you.
8) Request Extras
Sellers realize that in buyers' markets, often they have to give a little something extra to the buyers to entice a sale. Don't be afraid to ask for a home warranty protection plan that covers you in the event an appliance breaks down or the plumbing or heating malfunctions. Normally these plans protect you for one full year from the date of closing.
9) Ask for an Item You Don't Want
Did you like the sellers' dining room table? China cabinet? Fish tank? Ask for it in your offer and use it as a negotiating tool. Often this draws the sellers' thoughts away from price and directs those thoughts toward the personal property. If the listing stated the washer and dryer are not included in the sales price, ask for them. If the sellers balk, tell your agent to say, "OK, if we leave the washer & dryer, are you then ready to sign the offer?"
10) Shorten Acceptance Period
There often is no reason to give a seller more than 24 hours to make a decision about your offer. If your agent is presenting the offer in person, she may ask for a decision upon presentation. But don't give them days to talk to Uncle Harry, their neighbor down the street or the coworker who knows everything about real estate. There are a lot more homes on the market and you deserve a fast answer.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 11:26 PM

Tuesday, May 08, 2007

UnWaste Your World

UnWaste Your World
Is your home filling up with unused monitors, computer systems, televisions,printers, etc. and you don't know what to do with them? Universal Waste Management is a state approved e-waste (electronic waster or "Tech-junk") collector/recycler. They hold public collection events, but you can also drop off your e-waste at their warehouse FREE OF CHARGE and they are there to unload your vehicle. Hours are Monday through Friday, 8am - 4pm and Saturday 9am - 3pm. For more information just go to www.unwaste.com.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 5:43 PM

Looking For Oakland Youth Leaders

Looking for Oakland Youth Leaders
The Oakland Youth Advisory Commission is a group of 25 young people ages 13 to 21 who are appointed by the Mayor and City Council to advise the City on important youth issues. There are also three adult advisors who support the Commission.
The Oakland Youth Advisory Commission is looking for applicants for the 2007-2008 School Year. If you know any youth leaders who would be interested in making a difference in their community, improving their leadership skills and meeting diverse youth throughout the city, please encourage them to apply to be on the City's Oakland Youth Advisory Commission. The deadline for applications is May 31, 2007. For information, check out this website: www.oaklandhumanservices.org, or call (510)238-3245. For an application, send an e-mail to: ATacdol@oaklandnet.com.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 5:40 PM

Update On Lake Merritt Changes

Here is an update from Councilwoman, Pat Kerigan on the changes for Lake Merritt

Planning for Future Development around Lake Merritt
City planning staff has initiated a Zoning Study for the perimeter of Lake Merritt at the request of Councilmember Nancy Nadel (District 3) and me. The purpose of the study is to refine the existing development guidelines for the area around the Lake. General policy guidelines and concepts currently exist in the City’s General Plan and Lake Merritt Master Plan, but more specificity would be helpful to make sure that future development enhances, rather than detracts from, the unique open space and recreational areas around Lake Merritt. We have sponsored two community meetings where participants have heard about the zoning tools available to the City to address issues including: access to sunlight, excessive shadows or wind, protection of important views to and from the Lake, compatibility with the visual character of existing neighborhoods surrounding the Lake, and protection of historic resources around the Lake, among other issues. Updated zoning would provide greater protection for public benefits and more certainty to potential developers. To that end, the next community meeting of the Zoning Study is expected to take place late summer or early fall at which time City Planning Staff will present alternatives. The entire process – including compliance with California Environmental Quality Act and public hearings before the Planning Commission and City council – is anticipated to be complete by June 2008. If you would like to review the materials developed by the City Planning staff, please go here. To make comments, please e-mail Marisa Arrona on Councilmember Nadel’s staff at arronam@oaklandnet.com with a copy of your comments to Jennie Gerard on my staff at jgerard@oaklandnet.com.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 5:35 PM

Monday, May 07, 2007

11 Things You Must Know When Buying A Home!

11 Things You Must Know When Finding a Home

Once you've decided to buy a home, there's a number of issues that need to be considered. Because buying a home will be one of the biggest purchases you make in your life, learning the "11 Things You Must Know When Finding a Home" can make the process easier.
In this report, we outline 11 Questions and Answers to help you make informed choices when purchasing a home.
1. What Should I Look For When Deciding On A Community?
Select a community that will allow you to best live your daily life. Many people choose communities based on schools. Do you want access to shopping and public transportation? Is access to local facilities like libraries and museums important to you? Or do you prefer the peace and quiet of a rural community? When you find places that you like, talk to people that live there. They know the most about the area and will be your future neighbors. More than anything, you want a neighborhood where you feel comfortable in.
2. How Can I Find Out About Local Schools?
You can get information about school systems by contacting the city or local school board or the local schools. Your real estate agent may also be knowledgeable about schools in the area.
3. How Can I Find Out About Community Resources?
Contact the local chamber of commerce for promotional literature or talk to your real estate agent about welcome kits, maps, and other information. You may also want to visit the local library. It can be an excellent source for information on local events and resources, and the librarians will probably be able to answer many of the questions you have.
4. How Can I Find Out How Much Homes Are Selling For In Certain Communities and Neighborhoods?
Your real estate agent can give you a ballpark figure by showing you comparable listings. If you are working with a REALTOR®, they may have access to comparable sales maintained on a database.
5. How Can I Find Information On The Property Tax Liability?
The total amount of the previous year's property taxes is usually included in the listing information. If it's not, ask the seller for a tax receipt or contact the local assessor's office. Tax rates can change from year to year, so these figures maybe approximate.
6. What Other Tax Issues Should I Take Into Consideration?
Keep in mind that your mortgage interest and real estate taxes will be deductible. A qualified real estate professional can give you more details on other tax benefits and liabilities.
7. Is An Older Home A Better Value Than A New One?
There isn't a definitive answer to this question. You should look at each home for its individual characteristics. Generally, older homes may be in more established neighborhoods, offer more ambiance, and have lower property tax rates. People who buy older homes, however, shouldn't mind maintaining their home and making some repairs. Newer homes tend to use more modern architecture and systems, are usually easier to maintain, and may be more energy-efficient. People who buy new homes often don't want to worry initially about upkeep and repairs.
8. What Should I Look For When Walking Through A Home?
In addition to comparing the home to your minimum requirement and wish lists, consider the following:
Is there enough room for both the present and the future?
Are there enough bedrooms and bathrooms?
Is the house structurally sound?
Do the mechanical systems and appliances work?
Is the yard big enough?
Do you like the floor plan?
Will your furniture fit in the space? Is there enough storage space? (Bring a tape measure to better answer these questions)
Does anything need to be repaired or replaced? Will the seller repair or replace the items?
Imagine the house in good weather and bad, and in each season. Will you be happy with it year 'round?
Take your time and think carefully about each house you see. Ask your real estate agent to point out the pros and cons of each home from a professional standpoint.
9. What Questions Should I Ask When Looking At Homes?
Many of your questions should focus on potential problems and maintenance issues. Does anything need to be replaced? What things require ongoing maintenance (e.g., paint, roof, HVAC, appliances, carpet)? Also ask about the house and neighborhood, focusing on quality of life issues. Be sure the seller's or real estate agent's answers are clear and complete. Ask questions until you understand all of the information they've given. Making a list of questions ahead of time will help you organize your thoughts and arrange all of the information you receive.
10. How Can I Keep Track Of All The Homes I See?
If possible, take photographs of each house: the outside, the major rooms, the yard, and extra features that you like or ones you see as potential problems. And don't hesitate to return for a second look. You may also wish to find out if the home is available online. Photos of the property may already be up on a website for you to review.
11. How Many Homes Should I Consider Before Choosing One?
There isn't a set number of houses you should see before you decide. Visit as many as it takes to find the one you want. On average, homebuyers see 15 houses before choosing one. Just be sure to communicate often with your real estate agent about everything you're looking for. It will help avoid wasting your time.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 6:26 PM

Energy Efficient Windows

Tips On Energy Efficient Windows
Windows bring light, warmth, and beauty into buildings and give a feeling of openness and space to living areas. They can also be major sources of heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. However, when properly selected and installed, windows can help minimize a home's heating, cooling, and lighting costs. This information describes one option-- energy-efficient windows--available for reducing a home's heating and cooling energy requirements.
Controlling Air Leaks
When air leaks around windows, energy is wasted. Energy is also transferred through the centers, edges, and frames of windows.
Eliminating or reducing these paths of heat flow can greatly improve the energy efficiency of windows and, ultimately, of homes. Several options are available to reduce air leaks around windows; the least expensive options are caulking and weather stripping, followed by replacing window frames.
Caulking and Weather Stripping
Caulks are airtight compounds (usually latex or silicone) that fill cracks and holes. Before applying new caulk, old caulk or paint residue remaining round a window should be removed using a putty knife, stiff brush, or special solvent. After old caulk is removed, new caulk can then be applied to all joints in the window frame and the joint between the frame and the joint between the frame and the wall. The best time to apply caulk is during dry weather when the outdoor temperature is above 45 degrees fahrenheit (7.2 degrees celsius). Low humidity is important during application to prevent cracks from swelling with moisture. Warm temperatures are also necessary so the caulk will set properly and adhere to the surface.
Weather stripping is a narrow piece of metal, vinyl, rubber, felt, or foam that seals the contact area between the fixed and movable sections of a window joint. It should be applied between the sash and the frame, but should not interfere with the operation of the window.
Replacing Window Frames
The type and quality of the window frame usually affect a window's air infiltration and heat loss characteristics. Many window frames are available--all with varying degrees of energy efficiency. Some of the more common window frames are fixed-pane, casement, double and single-hung, horizontal sliding, hopper, and awning.
When properly installed, fixed-pane windows are airtight and inexpensive and can be custom designed for a wide variety of applications. However, because they cannot be opened, fixed-pane windows are unsuitable in places where ventilation is required.
Casement, awning, and hopper windows with compression seals are moderately airtight and provide good ventilation when opened. Casement windows open sideways with hand cranks. Awning windows are similar to casement windows except that their hinges are located at the tops of the windows instead of at the sides. Hopper windows are inverted versions of awning windows with their hinges located at the bottom. Windows with compression seals allow about half as much air leakage as double-hung and horizontal sliding window with sliding seals.
Double-hung windows have top and bottom sashes (the sliding sections of the window) and can be opened by pulling up the lower sashes or pulling down the upper sash. Although they are among the most popular type of window, double-hung windows can be inefficient because they are often leaky. Single-hung windows are somewhat better because only one sash moves. Horizontal sliding windows are like double-hung windows except that the sashes are located on the left and right edges rather than on the tops and bottoms. Horizontal sliding windows open on the side and are especially suitable for spaces that require a long, narrow view. These windows, however, usually provide minimal ventilation and, like double-hung windows, can be quite leaky.
Reducing Heat Loss and Condensation
Manufacturers usually represent the energy efficiency of windows in terms of their u-values (conductance of heat) or their r-values (resistance to heat flow). If a window's r- value is high, it will lose less heat than one with a lower r-value. Conversely, if a windows's u-value is low, it will lose less heat than one with a higher u-value. In other words, u-values are the reciprocals of r-values (u-values = 1/r-value). Most window manufacturers use r-values in rating their windows.
The following five factors affect the R-Value of a window:
The type of glazing material (e.g., glass, plastic, treated glass)
The number of layers of glass
The size of the air space between the layers of glass
The thermal resistance of conductance of the frame and spacer materials
The "tightness" of the installation (i.e., air leaks-- see previous discussion).
Types of Glazing Materials
Traditionally, clear glass has been the primary material available for window panes in homes. However, in recent years, the market for glazing--or cutting and fitting window panes into frames--has changed significantly. Now several types of special glazing's are available that can help control heat loss and condensation.
Low emissivity (low-e) glass has a special surface coating to reduce heat transfer back through the window. These coatings reflect from 40% to 70% of the heat that is normally transmitted through clear glass, while allowing the full amount of light to pass through.
Heat absorbing glass contains special tints that allow it to absorb as much as 45% of the incoming solar energy, reducing heat gain. Some of the absorbed heat, however, passes through the window by conduction and re-radiation.
Reflective glass has been coated with a reflective film and is useful in controlling solar heat gain during the summer. It also reduces the passage of light all year long, and, like heat absorbing glass, it reduces solar transmittance. Plastic glazing materials--acrylic, polycarbonate, polyester, polyvinyl fluoride, and polyethylene--are also widely available. Plastics can be stronger, lighter, cheaper and easier to cut than glass. Some plastics also have higher solar transmittance than glass. However, plastics tend to be less durable and more susceptible to the effects of weather than glass.
Storm windows can increase the efficiency of single-pane windows, the least energy-efficient type of glazing. The simplest type of storm window is a plastic film taped to the inside of the window frame. These films are usually available in prepackaged kits. Although plastic films are easily installed and removed, they are easily damaged and may reduce visibility. Rigid or semi-rigid plastic sheets such as plexiglass, acrylic, polycarbonate, or fiber-reinforced polyester can be fastened directly to the window frame or mounted in channels around the frame--usually on the outside of the building. These more durable materials are also available in kits.
Layers Of Glass and Air Spaces
Standard single-pane glass has very little insulating value (approximately r-1). It provides only a thin barrier to the outside and can account for considerable heat loss and gain. Traditionally, the approach to improve a window's energy efficiency has been to increase the number of glass panes in the unit, because multiple layers of glass increase the window's ability to resist heat flow.
Double-pane windows are usually more efficient than single- pane or storm windows. Double or triple-pane windows have insulating air or gas filled spaces between each pane. Each layer of glass and the air spaces resist heat flow. The width of the air spaces between the panes is important, because air spaces that are too wide (more than 5/8 inch or 1.6 centimeters) have lower r-values (i.e., they allow too much heat transfer). Advanced, multipane windows are now manufactured with inert gases (argon or krypton) in the spaces between the panes because these gases transfer less heat than does air. Multipane windows are considerably more expensive than single-pane windows and limit framing options because of their increased weight.
Frame and Spacer Materials
Window frames are available in a variety of materials including aluminum, wood, vinyl, and fiberglass. Frames may be primarily composed of one material, or they may be a combination of different materials such as wood and vinyl. Each frame material has its advantages and disadvantages. Though ideal for customized window design, aluminum frames cause conductive heat loss (i.e., they have low r-values) and condensation. However, thermal breaks made of insulating plastic strips placed between the inside and outside of the frame and sash greatly improve the thermal resistance of aluminum frames.
Wood frames have higher r-values, are unaffected by temperature extremes, and are less prone to condensation, but they require considerable maintenance in the form of periodic painting. If wood frames are not properly protected from moisture, they can warp, crack, and stick.
Vinyl window frames, which are made primarily from polyvinyl chloride (pvc), offer many advantages. They are available in a wide range of styles and shapes, have moderate to high r-values, are easily customized, are competitively priced, require low maintenance, and mold easily into almost any shape. But vinyl frames are not strong or rigid, which limits the weight of glass that can be used. In addition, vinyl frames can soften, warp, twist, and bow.
Fiberglass frames are relatively new and are not yet widely available. They have the highest r-values of all frames; thus, they are excellent for insulating and will not warp, shrink, swell, rot, or corrode. Fiberglass frames can be made in a variety of colors and can hold large expanses of glass. Some fiberglass frames are hollow; others are filled with fiberglass insulation.
Spacers are used to separate multiple panes of glass within the windows. Although metal (usually aluminum) spacers are commonly installed to separate glass in multipane windows, they conduct heat. During cold weather, the thermal resistance around the edge of a window is lower than that in the center; thus, heat can escape, and condensation can occur along the edges.
Many types of windows and window films are available that serve different purposes. To alleviate these problems, one manufacturer has developed a mulitipane window using a 1/8-inch-wide (0.32 centimeters- wide) PVC foam separator place along the edges of the frame. Like other multipane windows, these use metal spacers for support, but because the foam separator is secured on top of the spacer between the panes, heat loss and condensation are reduced. Several window manufacturers now sandwich foam separators, nylon spacers, and insulation materials such as polystyrene and rockwool between the glass inside their windows.
Additional Options For Reducing Heat Loss
Movable insulation, such as insulating shades, shutters, and drapes, can be applied on the inside of windows to reduce heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. Shading devices, such as awnings, exterior shutters, or screens, can be used to reduce unwanted heat gain in the summer. In most cases, these window treatments are more cost effective than energy efficient window replacements and should be considered first.
Reducing heat loss or gain in homes often includes either improving existing windows or replacing them. Low cost options available for improvement are caulking, weather stripping, retrofit window films, and window treatments. Replacing windows will involve the purchase of new materials, which should adhere to certain energy efficiency standards. Different combinations of frame style, frame material, and glazing can yield very different results when weighing energy efficiency and cost. For example, a fixed-pane window is the most airtight and the least expensive; a window with a wood frame is likely to have less conductive heat loss than one with an aluminum frame; double-pane, low-e window units are just as efficient as triple-pane untreated window's, but cost and weigh less.
No one window is suitable for every application. Many types of windows and window films are available that serve different purposes. Moreover, you may discover that you need two types of windows for your home because of the directions that your windows face and your local climate. To make wise purchases, first examine your heating and cooling needs and prioritize desired features such as daylighting, solar heating, shading, ventilation, and aesthetic value.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 6:23 PM

Friday, May 04, 2007

Energy Efficient Windows

Tips On Energy Efficient Windows
Windows bring light, warmth, and beauty into buildings and give a feeling of openness and space to living areas. They can also be major sources of heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. However, when properly selected and installed, windows can help minimize a home's heating, cooling, and lighting costs. This information describes one option-- energy-efficient windows--available for reducing a home's heating and cooling energy requirements.
Controlling Air Leaks
When air leaks around windows, energy is wasted. Energy is also transferred through the centers, edges, and frames of windows.
Eliminating or reducing these paths of heat flow can greatly improve the energy efficiency of windows and, ultimately, of homes. Several options are available to reduce air leaks around windows; the least expensive options are caulking and weather stripping, followed by replacing window frames.
Caulking and Weather Stripping
Caulks are airtight compounds (usually latex or silicone) that fill cracks and holes. Before applying new caulk, old caulk or paint residue remaining round a window should be removed using a putty knife, stiff brush, or special solvent. After old caulk is removed, new caulk can then be applied to all joints in the window frame and the joint between the frame and the joint between the frame and the wall. The best time to apply caulk is during dry weather when the outdoor temperature is above 45 degrees fahrenheit (7.2 degrees celsius). Low humidity is important during application to prevent cracks from swelling with moisture. Warm temperatures are also necessary so the caulk will set properly and adhere to the surface.
Weather stripping is a narrow piece of metal, vinyl, rubber, felt, or foam that seals the contact area between the fixed and movable sections of a window joint. It should be applied between the sash and the frame, but should not interfere with the operation of the window.
Replacing Window Frames
The type and quality of the window frame usually affect a window's air infiltration and heat loss characteristics. Many window frames are available--all with varying degrees of energy efficiency. Some of the more common window frames are fixed-pane, casement, double and single-hung, horizontal sliding, hopper, and awning.
When properly installed, fixed-pane windows are airtight and inexpensive and can be custom designed for a wide variety of applications. However, because they cannot be opened, fixed-pane windows are unsuitable in places where ventilation is required.
Casement, awning, and hopper windows with compression seals are moderately airtight and provide good ventilation when opened. Casement windows open sideways with hand cranks. Awning windows are similar to casement windows except that their hinges are located at the tops of the windows instead of at the sides. Hopper windows are inverted versions of awning windows with their hinges located at the bottom. Windows with compression seals allow about half as much air leakage as double-hung and horizontal sliding window with sliding seals.
Double-hung windows have top and bottom sashes (the sliding sections of the window) and can be opened by pulling up the lower sashes or pulling down the upper sash. Although they are among the most popular type of window, double-hung windows can be inefficient because they are often leaky. Single-hung windows are somewhat better because only one sash moves. Horizontal sliding windows are like double-hung windows except that the sashes are located on the left and right edges rather than on the tops and bottoms. Horizontal sliding windows open on the side and are especially suitable for spaces that require a long, narrow view. These windows, however, usually provide minimal ventilation and, like double-hung windows, can be quite leaky.
Reducing Heat Loss and Condensation
Manufacturers usually represent the energy efficiency of windows in terms of their u-values (conductance of heat) or their r-values (resistance to heat flow). If a window's r- value is high, it will lose less heat than one with a lower r-value. Conversely, if a windows's u-value is low, it will lose less heat than one with a higher u-value. In other words, u-values are the reciprocals of r-values (u-values = 1/r-value). Most window manufacturers use r-values in rating their windows.
The following five factors affect the R-Value of a window:
The type of glazing material (e.g., glass, plastic, treated glass)
The number of layers of glass
The size of the air space between the layers of glass
The thermal resistance of conductance of the frame and spacer materials
The "tightness" of the installation (i.e., air leaks-- see previous discussion).
Types of Glazing Materials
Traditionally, clear glass has been the primary material available for window panes in homes. However, in recent years, the market for glazing--or cutting and fitting window panes into frames--has changed significantly. Now several types of special glazing's are available that can help control heat loss and condensation.
Low emissivity (low-e) glass has a special surface coating to reduce heat transfer back through the window. These coatings reflect from 40% to 70% of the heat that is normally transmitted through clear glass, while allowing the full amount of light to pass through.
Heat absorbing glass contains special tints that allow it to absorb as much as 45% of the incoming solar energy, reducing heat gain. Some of the absorbed heat, however, passes through the window by conduction and re-radiation.
Reflective glass has been coated with a reflective film and is useful in controlling solar heat gain during the summer. It also reduces the passage of light all year long, and, like heat absorbing glass, it reduces solar transmittance. Plastic glazing materials--acrylic, polycarbonate, polyester, polyvinyl fluoride, and polyethylene--are also widely available. Plastics can be stronger, lighter, cheaper and easier to cut than glass. Some plastics also have higher solar transmittance than glass. However, plastics tend to be less durable and more susceptible to the effects of weather than glass.
Storm windows can increase the efficiency of single-pane windows, the least energy-efficient type of glazing. The simplest type of storm window is a plastic film taped to the inside of the window frame. These films are usually available in prepackaged kits. Although plastic films are easily installed and removed, they are easily damaged and may reduce visibility. Rigid or semi-rigid plastic sheets such as plexiglass, acrylic, polycarbonate, or fiber-reinforced polyester can be fastened directly to the window frame or mounted in channels around the frame--usually on the outside of the building. These more durable materials are also available in kits.
Layers Of Glass and Air Spaces
Standard single-pane glass has very little insulating value (approximately r-1). It provides only a thin barrier to the outside and can account for considerable heat loss and gain. Traditionally, the approach to improve a window's energy efficiency has been to increase the number of glass panes in the unit, because multiple layers of glass increase the window's ability to resist heat flow.
Double-pane windows are usually more efficient than single- pane or storm windows. Double or triple-pane windows have insulating air or gas filled spaces between each pane. Each layer of glass and the air spaces resist heat flow. The width of the air spaces between the panes is important, because air spaces that are too wide (more than 5/8 inch or 1.6 centimeters) have lower r-values (i.e., they allow too much heat transfer). Advanced, multipane windows are now manufactured with inert gases (argon or krypton) in the spaces between the panes because these gases transfer less heat than does air. Multipane windows are considerably more expensive than single-pane windows and limit framing options because of their increased weight.
Frame and Spacer Materials
Window frames are available in a variety of materials including aluminum, wood, vinyl, and fiberglass. Frames may be primarily composed of one material, or they may be a combination of different materials such as wood and vinyl. Each frame material has its advantages and disadvantages. Though ideal for customized window design, aluminum frames cause conductive heat loss (i.e., they have low r-values) and condensation. However, thermal breaks made of insulating plastic strips placed between the inside and outside of the frame and sash greatly improve the thermal resistance of aluminum frames.
Wood frames have higher r-values, are unaffected by temperature extremes, and are less prone to condensation, but they require considerable maintenance in the form of periodic painting. If wood frames are not properly protected from moisture, they can warp, crack, and stick.
Vinyl window frames, which are made primarily from polyvinyl chloride (pvc), offer many advantages. They are available in a wide range of styles and shapes, have moderate to high r-values, are easily customized, are competitively priced, require low maintenance, and mold easily into almost any shape. But vinyl frames are not strong or rigid, which limits the weight of glass that can be used. In addition, vinyl frames can soften, warp, twist, and bow.
Fiberglass frames are relatively new and are not yet widely available. They have the highest r-values of all frames; thus, they are excellent for insulating and will not warp, shrink, swell, rot, or corrode. Fiberglass frames can be made in a variety of colors and can hold large expanses of glass. Some fiberglass frames are hollow; others are filled with fiberglass insulation.
Spacers are used to separate multiple panes of glass within the windows. Although metal (usually aluminum) spacers are commonly installed to separate glass in multipane windows, they conduct heat. During cold weather, the thermal resistance around the edge of a window is lower than that in the center; thus, heat can escape, and condensation can occur along the edges.
Many types of windows and window films are available that serve different purposes. To alleviate these problems, one manufacturer has developed a mulitipane window using a 1/8-inch-wide (0.32 centimeters- wide) PVC foam separator place along the edges of the frame. Like other multipane windows, these use metal spacers for support, but because the foam separator is secured on top of the spacer between the panes, heat loss and condensation are reduced. Several window manufacturers now sandwich foam separators, nylon spacers, and insulation materials such as polystyrene and rockwool between the glass inside their windows.
Additional Options For Reducing Heat Loss
Movable insulation, such as insulating shades, shutters, and drapes, can be applied on the inside of windows to reduce heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. Shading devices, such as awnings, exterior shutters, or screens, can be used to reduce unwanted heat gain in the summer. In most cases, these window treatments are more cost effective than energy efficient window replacements and should be considered first.
Reducing heat loss or gain in homes often includes either improving existing windows or replacing them. Low cost options available for improvement are caulking, weather stripping, retrofit window films, and window treatments. Replacing windows will involve the purchase of new materials, which should adhere to certain energy efficiency standards. Different combinations of frame style, frame material, and glazing can yield very different results when weighing energy efficiency and cost. For example, a fixed-pane window is the most airtight and the least expensive; a window with a wood frame is likely to have less conductive heat loss than one with an aluminum frame; double-pane, low-e window units are just as efficient as triple-pane untreated window's, but cost and weigh less.
No one window is suitable for every application. Many types of windows and window films are available that serve different purposes. Moreover, you may discover that you need two types of windows for your home because of the directions that your windows face and your local climate. To make wise purchases, first examine your heating and cooling needs and prioritize desired features such as daylighting, solar heating, shading, ventilation, and aesthetic value.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 9:12 AM

Tuesday, May 01, 2007

Home Inspections

11 Things You Need to Know to Pass Your Home Inspection


"According to industry experts, there are at least 33 physical problems that will come under scrutiny during a home inspection when your home is for sale. Here are 11 you should know about if you’re planning to put your home up for sale."

Homebuyers Want to Know Your Home Inside and Out
While homebuyers are as individual as the homes they plan on purchasing, one thing they share is a desire to ensure that the home they will call their own is as good beneath the surface as it appears to be. Will the roof end up leaking? Is the wiring safe? What about the plumbing? These, and others, are the questions that the buyers looking at your home will seek professional help to answer.
According to industry experts, there are at least 33 physical problems that will come under scrutiny during a home inspection. We’ve identified the 11 most common of these and, if not identified and dealt with, any of these 11 items could cost you dearly in terms of repair.
In most cases, you can make a reasonable pre-inspection yourself if you know what you’re looking for. And knowing what you’re looking for can help you prevent little problems from growing into costly and unmanageable ones.
11 Things You Need to Know to Pass Your Home Inspection
1. Defective Plumbing
Defective plumbing can manifest itself in two different ways: leaking, and clogging. A visual inspection can detect leaking, and an inspector will gauge water pressure by turning on all faucets in the highest bathroom and then flushing the toilet. If you hear the sound of running water, it indicates that the pipes are undersized. If the water appears dirty when first turned on at the faucet, this is a good indication that the pipes are rusting, which can result in severe water quality problems.
2. Damp or Wet Basement
An inspector will check your walls for a powdery white mineral deposit a few inches off the floor, and will look to see if you feel secure enough to store things right on your basement floor. A mildew odor is almost impossible to eliminate, and an inspector will certainly be conscious of it.
It could cost you $200-$1,000 to seal a crack in or around your basement foundation depending on severity and location. Adding a sump pump and pit could run you around $750 - $1,000, and complete waterproofing (of an average 3 bedroom home) could amount to $5,000-$15,000. You will have to weigh these figures into the calculation of what price you want to net on your home.
3. Inadequate Wiring & Electrical
Your home should have a minimum of 100 amps service, and this should be clearly marked. Wire should be copper or aluminum. Home inspectors will look at octopus plugs as indicative of inadequate circuits and a potential fire hazard.
4. Poor Heating & Cooling Systems
Insufficient insulation, and an inadequate or a poorly functioning heating system, are the most common causes of poor heating. While an adequately clean furnace, without rust on the heat exchanger, usually has life left in it, an inspector will be asking and checking to see if your furnace is over its typical life span of 15-25 yrs. For a forced air gas system, a heat exchanger will come under particular scrutiny since one that is cracked can emit deadly carbon monoxide into the home. These heat exchangers must be replaced if damaged -they cannot be repaired.
5. Roofing Problems
Water leakage through the roof can occur for a variety of reasons such as physical deterioration of the asphalt shingles (e.g. curling or splitting), or mechanical damage from a wind storm. When gutters leak and downspouts allow water to run down and through the exterior walls, this external problem becomes a major internal one.
6. Damp Attic Spaces
Aside from basement dampness, problems with ventilation, insulation and vapor barriers can cause water, moisture, mould and mildew to form in the attic. This can lead to premature wear of the roof, structure and building materials. The cost to fix this damage could easily run over $2,500.
7. Rotting Wood
This can occur in many places (door or window frames, trim, siding, decks and fences). The building inspector will sometimes probe the wood to see if this is present - especially when wood has been freshly painted.
8. Masonry Work
Re-bricking can be costly, but, left unattended, these repairs can cause problems with water and moisture penetration into the home which in turn could lead to a chimney being clogged by fallen bricks or even a chimney which falls onto the roof. It can be costly to rebuild a chimney or to have it repainted.
9. Unsafe or Over-fused Electrical Circuit
A fire hazard is created when more amperage is drawn on the circuit than was intended. 15 amp circuits are the most common in a typical home, with larger service for large appliances such as stoves and dryers. It can cost several hundred dollars to replace your fuse panel with a circuit panel.
10. Adequate Security Features
More than a purchased security system, an inspector will look for the basic safety features that will protect your home such as proper locks on windows and patio doors, dead bolts on the doors, smoke and even carbon monoxide detectors in every bedroom and on every level. Even though pricing will vary, these components will add to your costs. Before purchasing or installing, you should check with your local experts.
11. Structural/Foundation Problems
An inspector will certainly investigate the underlying footing and foundation of your home as structural integrity is fundamental to your home.
When you put your home on the market, you don’t want any unpleasant surprises that could cost you the sale of your home. By having an understanding of these 11 problem areas as you walk through your home, you’ll be arming yourself against future disappointment.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 6:51 AM

Short Sales

We are hearing more and More about Short Sales in the Media and From Clients.
Here is an article about some of the basics to know about Short Sales.

Real Estate Short Sales - How to Handle Real Estate Short Sales
From Elizabeth Weintraub,Your Guide to Home Buying / Selling.FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now!
Why Real Estate Short Sales are Profitable
There are many ways to lose a home but signing away ownership in a manner that destroys credit, embarrasses the family and strips an owner of dignity is one of the hardest. For owners who can no longer afford to keep mortgage payments current, there are alternatives to bankruptcy or foreclosure proceedings. One of those options is called a "short sale." When lenders agree to do a short sale in real estate, it means the lender is accepting less than the total amount due. Not all lenders will accept short sales or discounted payoffs, especially if it would make more financial sense to foreclose. If you are considering buying a short sale, there could be drawbacks. For your protection, I suggest that all borrowers
Obtain legal advice from a competent real estate lawyer
Call an accountant to discuss tax ramifications
As a real estate agent, I am not licensed as a lawyer nor a CPA and cannot advise on those consequences.
zSB(3,3)
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Investing in ForeclosuresJust got less risky Thanks to Trump Universitywww.TrumpUniversity.comBe aware the I.R.S. will consider debt forgiveness as income, and there is no guarantee that a lender who accepts a short sale will not legally pursue a borrower for the difference between the amount owed and the amount paid. In some states, this amount is known as a deficiency. A lawyer can determine whether your loan qualifies for a deficiency judgment or claim.
Although all lenders have varying requirements and may demand that a borrower submit a wide array of documentation, the following steps will give you a pretty good idea of what to expect.
Call the LenderYou may need to make a half dozen phone calls before you find the person responsible for handling short sales. You do not want to talk to the "real estate short sale" or "work out" department, you want the supervisor's name, the name of the individual capable of making a decision.
Submit Letter of AuthorizationLenders typically do not want to disclose any of your personal information without written authorization to do so. If you are working with a real estate agent, closing agent, title company or lawyer, you will receive better cooperation if you write a letter to the lender giving the lender permission to talk with those specific interested parties about your loan. The letter should include the following:
Property Address
Loan Reference Number
Your Name
The Date
Your Agent's Name & Contact Information
Preliminary Net SheetThis is an estimated closing statement that shows the sales price you expect to receive and all the costs of sale, unpaid loan balances, outstanding payments due and late fees, including real estate commissions, if any. Your closing agent or lawyer should be able to prepare this for you if you do not know how to calculate any of these fees. If the bottom line shows cash to the seller, you will probably not need a short sale.
Hardship LetterThe sadder, the better. This statement of facts describes how you got into this financial bind and makes a plea to the lender to accept less than full payment. Lenders are not inhumane and can understand if you lost your job, were hospitalized or a truck ran over your entire family, but lenders are not particularly empathetic to situations involving dishonesty or criminal behavior.
Proof of Income and AssetsIt is best to be truthful and honest about your financial situation and disclose assets. Lenders will want to know if you have savings accounts, money market accounts, stocks or bonds, negotiable instruments, cash or other real estate or anything of tangible value. Lender are not in the charity business and often require assurance that the debtor cannot pay back any of the debt that it is forgiving.
Copies of Bank StatementsIf your bank statements reflect unaccountable deposits, large cash withdrawals or an unusual number of checks, it's probably a good idea to explain each of those line items to the lender. In addition, the lender might want you to account for each and every deposit so it can determine whether deposits will continue.
Comparative Market AnalysisSometimes markets decline and property values fall. If this part of the reason that you cannot sell your home for enough to pay off the lender, this fact should be substantiated for the lender through a comparative market analysis (CMA). Your real estate agent can prepare a CMA for you, which will show prices of similar homes
Active on the market
Pending sales
Solds from the past six months.
Purchase Agreement & Listing AgreementWhen you reach an agreement to sell with a prospective purchaser, the lender will want a copy of the offer, along with a copy of your listing agreement. Be prepared for the lender to renegotiate commissions and to refuse to allow payment of certain items such as home protection plans or termite inspections.
Now if everything goes well, the lender will approve your short sale. As part of the negotiation, you might ask that the lender not report adverse credit to the credit reporting agencies, but realize that the lender is under no obligation to accommodate this request.

# posted by Dave and Carla Higgins @ 6:20 AM


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